Matt (![[info]](http://l-stat.livejournal.com/img/userinfo.gif){kind=small} inpetto) wrote,@ 2004-03-21 14:55:00 |
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Climbing trip
I wrapped up Spring Break with a trip to Red River Gorge withcdent and bro. As soon as bro got home from work Thursday, we headed to cdent's place, packed up the Mazda, and hit the road by 6:30. We stopped for Wendy's along the way and arrived at Miguel's around 10. I was pretty excited, like a kid before Christmas, so I didn't sleep too well. (It also got below freezing, and I was in a bag of unknown insulating value.) 
Next morning we rose early, ate Miguel's fresh muffins and hit the trail by 9:30. We went to Left Flank where I toproped Mr. Bungle (5.8+, 60ft), then led it (my first lead) on prehung draws, then led it, debased (first time) and cleaned the route. The route is not too exciting, but I was thrilled just to be leading on real rock. About the time we were finished here, Face Up To That Crack (5.8-, 70ft) opened up. I led this clean on draws plus one hex that cdent had left behind. The view from up here was gorgeous as we were already probably 100ft above where we'd parked the car.
Around the corner, we watched some friendly Canadians set up a photoshoot of one of them ascending the beautiful 5.12a Too Many Puppies. (They would later generously give us a six of Molson Golden for "making us wait", but it had been a nice break in the sun and fun to watch.) After they were done, cdent led To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a, 60ft) and then I gave it my best shot on lead. I was nearly to the last bolt before the anchors, gripped and pumped but making progress, when I grabbed a greasy sloper which I expected to be much more positive. I took a completely unexpected 20-25 ft lead fall (my first) and then lowered off the route. Despite the fact that I fell and walked off unharmed, I remained a little spooked for the rest of the trip. After we were done here, cdent led the 5.11a Maypop and bro led the 5.9 Brother Stair in the dusk. I wanted to toprope this, but I was unable to put the bouldery heel-hook start together so cdent went up and cleaned it and we hiked down the approach trail, returned to Miguel's for delightful pizza, aforementioned beer and earned sleep.
Saturday morning was warmer but forecast for rain. We broke camp after the muffins and settled on Torrent Falls. I led two 5.8s with unknown names (not in the guidebook). My only other climb this day was a toprope "ascent" of Wadcutter (5.9, 50ft). I could not put the final move together so just hauled up on rope tension once I got there. There was some adventure as someone took a leader fall on an adjacent 5.11a and sprained her ankle. Just after this the thunderstorm rolled in. Amublances were called and then canceled and she was able to hobble down the hill and get back to Miguel's for recuperation. After this cdent led Seek the Truth (5.11d, 50ft) wherein he got himself fairly horizontal and had much heel-hookery and reachy-clippery, not to mention jiggery pokery. After this we declared ourselves done, drove back to Miguel's for pizza, then started the long road home.
All in all, a very satisfying getaway. I learned new skills, got to hang with good friends, got fresh air and sunshine, and no one got hurt. Hopefully, we shall do it again soon.
I wrapped up Spring Break with a trip to Red River Gorge with
cdent and bro. As soon as bro got home from work Thursday, we headed to cdent's place, packed up the Mazda, and hit the road by 6:30. We stopped for Wendy's along the way and arrived at Miguel's around 10. I was pretty excited, like a kid before Christmas, so I didn't sleep too well. (It also got below freezing, and I was in a bag of unknown insulating value.) Next morning we rose early, ate Miguel's fresh muffins and hit the trail by 9:30. We went to Left Flank where I toproped Mr. Bungle (5.8+, 60ft), then led it (my first lead) on prehung draws, then led it, debased (first time) and cleaned the route. The route is not too exciting, but I was thrilled just to be leading on real rock. About the time we were finished here, Face Up To That Crack (5.8-, 70ft) opened up. I led this clean on draws plus one hex that cdent had left behind. The view from up here was gorgeous as we were already probably 100ft above where we'd parked the car.
Around the corner, we watched some friendly Canadians set up a photoshoot of one of them ascending the beautiful 5.12a Too Many Puppies. (They would later generously give us a six of Molson Golden for "making us wait", but it had been a nice break in the sun and fun to watch.) After they were done, cdent led To Defy the Laws of Tradition (5.10a, 60ft) and then I gave it my best shot on lead. I was nearly to the last bolt before the anchors, gripped and pumped but making progress, when I grabbed a greasy sloper which I expected to be much more positive. I took a completely unexpected 20-25 ft lead fall (my first) and then lowered off the route. Despite the fact that I fell and walked off unharmed, I remained a little spooked for the rest of the trip. After we were done here, cdent led the 5.11a Maypop and bro led the 5.9 Brother Stair in the dusk. I wanted to toprope this, but I was unable to put the bouldery heel-hook start together so cdent went up and cleaned it and we hiked down the approach trail, returned to Miguel's for delightful pizza, aforementioned beer and earned sleep.
Saturday morning was warmer but forecast for rain. We broke camp after the muffins and settled on Torrent Falls. I led two 5.8s with unknown names (not in the guidebook). My only other climb this day was a toprope "ascent" of Wadcutter (5.9, 50ft). I could not put the final move together so just hauled up on rope tension once I got there. There was some adventure as someone took a leader fall on an adjacent 5.11a and sprained her ankle. Just after this the thunderstorm rolled in. Amublances were called and then canceled and she was able to hobble down the hill and get back to Miguel's for recuperation. After this cdent led Seek the Truth (5.11d, 50ft) wherein he got himself fairly horizontal and had much heel-hookery and reachy-clippery, not to mention jiggery pokery. After this we declared ourselves done, drove back to Miguel's for pizza, then started the long road home.
All in all, a very satisfying getaway. I learned new skills, got to hang with good friends, got fresh air and sunshine, and no one got hurt. Hopefully, we shall do it again soon.
